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This article appeared in the San Jose Mercury News
in January 2000
Tying the Knot in
Tuscany
A Determined Bride-To-Be Finds
Florence the Best Place in Which to Make Marry
by Chandi J. Wyant
MORE THAN anything in 1998, I had wanted to wed in
Florence, Italy. But family members said, ``You can't
get married there, it's too far away.'' And our friends
said, ``You can't get married there, you're not Catholic.''
But my fiance, Dave, encouraged me to go on an investigative
trip to my beloved city anyway. So I did.
I paid many visits to the marriage office in Florence's
town hall, as well as to the American consulate, in
attempts to understand the civil documentation process.
Both places gave me mind-boggling lists of appointments,
oaths, certificates, witnesses, stamps and sworn statements.
Typically, the two offices contradicted each other
in their respective rules and regulations. I also
spent a week searching for a priest and a church,
encountering plenty of obstacles. Then I made two
discoveries that paved the way.
One day while sharing a biting espresso with my Italian
friend Cinzia in her little apartment, she asked,
``Didn't you say David was Catholic?''
``Well, yes,'' I replied. ``He was brought up that
way.''
``I think it might be solved then!'' said Cinzia,
explaining that a ``mixed ceremony'' was possible
if one of the sposi was Catholic. What Dave needed
to prove was his batesimo and cresima.
I phoned my fiance:
``Are you a certified Catholic?'' I asked him. ``Can
you prove it?''
``I don't know, I suppose so. Have you found a priest
and a church?''
``No I haven't,'' I said, tearing at a fingernail.
``Look, this is important. Call your mom and find
out if you've got baptism and cresima certificates.''
``Crazy what?''
``Oh,'' I groaned. ``How do you say cresima in English?
You know, that rite-of-passage thing Catholics do!''
The next day I got the good news. Dave was a certified
Catholic with papers to prove it. That night Cinzia
took me scouting for a wedding dinner location. Chasing
up a narrow country road on the south side of the
city, she took a wrong turn and stopped in what happened
to be a little church's driveway.
``Oh, by the way,'' she said, ``that's a cute church.''
I got out and peered through the darkness. We were
on the crest of a hill. Ancient stone walls hugged
the quiet via; cypress and Mediterranean pines rested
against one another in slumber.
I curiously entered the shadowy courtyard, noticing
the unadorned simplicity of the small church's stone
facade. On the other side of a low wall I sensed a
Renaissance landscape through the Tuscan darkness.
The next morning, I looked up the church of Santa
Margherita a Montici in the phone book and dialed
with hope and trepidation. The priest, Don Gamberucci,
answered. After introducing myself and explaining
my interest, I was thrilled to hear his cheerful ``Vieni,
vieni! Come on up!''
Don Gamberucci, with an agile step and lively eyes,
greeted me as if he were a long-lost relative. He
showed me the antique organ that was recently restored,
and the triptych paintings of the Virgin Mary done
by a follower of Giotto.
I loved the rough stone walls inside the church.
The building dated from the eighth century, and was
dedicated to Saint Margaret of Antioch, who was known
as a protector of women in childbirth. We picked a
date for six months hence -- in September -- and he
loaded me up with instructions, calling out, ``Auguri,
auguri!'' (best wishes) as I departed.
Back in California, the challenges I faced in organizing
a wedding from 7,000 miles distance, and dealing in
another language, proved to be immense. One of the
greatest struggles was understanding and correctly
completing the daunting civil documentation.
Luckily we were blessed with a gem of a priest who
was always patient and helpful every time I phoned
him in desperation. The clarity I finally managed
to gain was this: Once in Florence, Dave and I would
have to spend a morning completing the civil documentation
first at the American consulate, where we'd do a sworn
statement called a Nulla Osta. Then we'd have to rush
(di corsa! the priest had emphasized rush)
to the Prefettura, where we would legalize the consulate's
signature.
Then he advised taking a taxi (di corsa!)
to the Pretura (not to be confused with the Prefettura,)
before they closed at noon for the day, to do the
Atto Notorio, a sworn statement requiring
two witnesses and the notarization of an Italian magistrate.
My fiance, typically, was not interested in the wedding
details and my mother was in England for the summer.
It proved to be extremely fatiguing to be so totally
on my own in arranging the event. It certainly didn't
help that I had a bevy of health problems and a 50-hour
work week. For financial reasons we had chosen not
to hire someone to organize it for us, the way most
people do with destination weddings.
I arrived in Italy six days before the ceremony,
completely exhausted with plenty of tasks still to
complete. When Dave arrived, we found trattoria for
the wedding dinner with only three days to spare.
Daniele, the young owner, explained his philosophy
about food and wine with a passion that brought tears
to my eyes. We sampled his September specialty: penne
with Gorgonzola and grapes, which Dave pronounced
``awesome.''
When Dave asked for his favorite Italian dessert,
panna cotta, instead of a wedding cake, Daniele immediately
called to his assistant and said, ``We'll need six
tubs of fresh cream for Friday night!''
The evening before the wedding we were given a Tuscan
treat when Don Gamberucci offered to take Dave and
me and our guests up the church's tower. With anticipation
we crowded behind him at the bottom of a barely discernible
spiral staircase.
``He says the tower was built in the year 900,''
I translated to the others.
``Piano piano, attento la testa!'' Don Gamberucci
called gaily to me.
`Watch your head and go slowly, he says!'' I called
to the muffle of bodies below me. Clambering onto
a platform we observed four beautifully ancient bells
in the purple evening dusk.
``They are endangered bells,'' I translated, ``so
they aren't played anymore, but he'll let us just
hear their tone, which he says is still perfect.''
Don Gamberucci demonstrated how we could ever so
gently pull the heavy tongue and touch it against
the edge of the bell. The resulting sound was worth
the entire trip. Each bell had its own exquisite tone,
and together they made up the tone of Italy. Everyone
was hushed, mesmerized by the magical sound echoing
across the vale of Florence far below.
Half an hour before the ceremony was to begin, everyone
except two of my friends had departed for the church.
Yet these friends disappeared as the makeup artist
was finishing and I found myself alone. The more the
minutes passed with no return of my friends, whose
support I desperately needed, the more anxious I became.
I tried to put my dress on but it was impossible
to get either the dress or the corset over my head
by myself. By the time I arrived at the church, with
crooked corset and frazzled nerves, the only feeling
I had was of wanting to burst into tears.
During the ceremony the priest charmed everyone with
his enthusiasm, which shone through without need for
a common language. And I knew, once I was able to
breathe again, that the ancient church filled with
afternoon sunlight on the Florentine hill was the
most perfect church in the world.
Sunset found us at Piazzale Michelangelo's terrace
bar. We had drinks and hors d'oeuvres overlooking
the dreamy panorama of Florence, which Mark Twain
so eloquently described:
``To see the sun sink down, drowned in its pink and
purple and golden floods, and overwhelm Florence with
tides of color that make all the sharp lines dim and
faint and turn the solid city to a city of dreams,
is a sight to stir the coldest nature and make a sympathetic
one drunk with ecstasy.''
At Daniele's intimate trattoria we sat around one
long table and in genuine Tuscan fashion ate, drank
and made merry for more than three hours. Even my
quiet new husband seemed to take on Italian mannerisms
that night, waving his hands, having a few conversations
at once, and giving a speech about passion and food.
We closed down the trattoria with everyone on their
feet, swaying together with linked arms, singing ``Aulde
Lang Syne.''
Back home in Silicon Valley I wrote a letter to the
mayor of Florence, singing the praises of the Florentines
who made our wedding so special, and thanking the
city for allowing me to have my dream. The mayor,
in keeping with the genuine nature of our experience,
sent back a hand-written card, thanking me for my
``beautiful words for Florence and her people.''
This article appeared in the Daily Camera in
February 2005
The Italian job
Boulder wedding planner puts
couples under the Tuscan sun
By Lisa Marshall, Camera Staff
Writer
February 24, 2005
"To see the sun sink down, drowned in its pink
and purple and golden floods, and overwhelm Florence
with tides of color that make all the sharp lines
dim and faint and turn the solid city to a city of
dreams, is a sight to stir the coldest nature and
make a sympathetic one drunk with ecstasy."
— Mark Twain
It was a gray, bitter cold day in Boulder and the
icy roads were crawling with time-crunched commuters
on their way to work. But within the fresco orange
walls of Chandi Wyant's home office, you could almost
feel the Tuscan sun shining down.
Around her desk hung framed pictures of newlyweds
embracing in Florentine castles or sipping wine among
rows of olive trees in the countryside — images
so romantic they'd leave even the coldest cynic longing
for Italy.
It was Wyant who — from her perch at her computer
6,000 miles away — helped create those images.
For the past five years, since she left the furious
pace of the high-tech world behind, the 40-year-old
Louisville woman has made a comfortable living helping
brides and grooms-to-be plan the Italian wedding of
their dreams.
At first, it seemed too narrow a niche for a business,
but Wyant has since learned it's not so narrow: Inspired
by the publication of Frances May's 1996 bestseller,
"Under the Tuscan Sun," and the subsequent
2003 hit movie starring Diane Lane, it appears Americans
are longing for all things Italian.
"Americans are yearning for a place where beauty
and art matter, where time is not the enemy, where
the day feels like a Pablo Neruda poem, where you
have time to savor family and good friends and good
wine," Wyant says. "Italy epitomizes all
of that."
Wyant's own love affair with Italy began more than
20 years ago when, at the urging of her grandmother,
she set out to travel the world after she graduated
from high school.
"When I went to Rome and Florence I was just
absolutely stunned with the history that was alive
and around me. I had never been anywhere as aesthetically
pleasing as Italy," she says. "I was in
love from day one."
She spent a year there learning the language, but
then her travels took her elsewhere, including India,
Siberia and Poland, where she worked as a peace activist,
helped coordinate study abroad programs and did other
odd jobs. Years later she returned to the states and,
"out of desperation," joined the corporate
world, working for four years in Silicon Valley as
an event planner.
But Italy kept calling her back.
She planned her own small wedding there in September
1998, saying vows at a picturesque stone church in
the countryside and dining at an "elbows on the
table" Italian eatery where the wine flowed freely.
When she sent a first-person account of it to the
San Jose Mercury News, they printed it. And by day's
end, she was shocked to find her inbox full of inquiries.
"The e-mails just kept coming in," she
says. "People were saying, 'That is the wedding
I want. You've got to help me.'"
So she did.
Today, Wyant plans about 12 weddings per year, handling
everything from overseas paperwork hassles (and there
are many) to flowers, photography and lodging plans,
depending on the clients. Because some of the vendors
she works with in Tuscany have yet to embrace the
Internet, she has Italian assistants there who can
print out her e-mails — with pictures of things
like flowers and bridesmaids' dresses attached —
and deliver them via moped, if necessary.
Wyant has handled weddings ranging from $4,000 to
tens of thousands, from quaint casual gatherings to
painstakingly planned productions complete with opera
singers and the couple's own private label wine.
One couple arrived at a castle by boat, greeted by
a crowd of friends and family members. Another said
their vows in a Catholic church, then gathered at
a candle-lit castle, where an Italian tenor provided
the background music.
But most clients, Wyant says, want simplicity.
"In a way they are trying to escape this overwhelming
thing that happens in the United States where they
have to invite 200 people because they don't want
to leave anyone out."
After Susan Taylor, 27, of Alberta, Canada, got engaged,
she began scouring the Internet looking for a wedding
planner, and was struck by Wyant's personal touch.
With Wyant looking on this summer, Taylor and her
husband wed in a circa AD 903 church in the Florentine
Hills.
The highlight of the day, recalls Taylor, was when
the newlyweds walked out of the church to find a crowd
of local villagers looking on. Outside the church
door, they'd fashioned a giant heart out of rose petals.
"I hate to think of people who start off their
marriage and all they have to remember is 'my mother-in-law
was doing this,' or 'the weather was doing that,'"
Taylor says. "For us, everything was perfect,
and everything was perfect because of Chandi."
Wyant lived in Florence for an 18-month stint, but
came back to Boulder in September when her husband
got a job here. She now does the majority of her work
via the Internet, with occasional visits to Italy
to attend client weddings. Make no mistake, her job
is not all roses. Like anything else, it comes with
drudgery, she says. But the payoff is tremendous.
"When I hear the tenor singing 'Ave Maria' in
this timeless, beautiful church in the Tuscan countryside
and I see the smile on the bride's face, the last
year of stress is over," she says. "It's
all worth it."
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